TONSAI, Thailand // We had three major goals of coming to Railay. First, I wanted to do the first pitch of Lord of the Thais. Second, Jenny wanted to do her first 5.9 climb on lead. Finally, I wanted to push my climbing more than ever, to see what grades I could do if I trained for a few weeks straight.
Climbing is something that we have come to really enjoy over the past 8 years. It combines all aspects of mental focus // puzzle solving, emotional confidence, and staying calm. Additionally it contains physical aspects // strength, grip ability, and endurance.
The last few days we met many people in the climbing community here in Tonsai who are incredible climbers, much better and stronger than us. Just being around them, and watching them push each other to their best has been contagious.
There is a well known route on Tonsai beach called Humanality. It is a 5.10c / 6b+ multipitch route. This means that after you climb, you do not get lowered to the ground. Instead, you continue upwards to another anchor ledge. From here you and your partner continue up higher and higher until you reach the top and then rappel down. Humanality I never even considered trying, as I had determined it to be way beyond my comfort level and ability. However, I felt strong the last few days completing two 6b routes on lead, and more importantly, mentally confident in myself. One of the other Americans that I had been climbing with wanted to try it. After a full rest day we met at 6am and made a plan for how we would accomplish this. When morning arrived we got on the wall as Jenny watched from the breakfast restaurant below wth other climbers helping in our communication and taking the following notes.
- 5:45 wake up
- 6:00 leave room
- 6:27 start approach pitch but monkeys at anchor ledge, delay climbing
- 7:02 Somil leads start of approach pitch
- 7:30 Adam makes it to approach anchor, both at official beginning of climb
- 7:32 Somil leads start of pitch 1
- 7:51 Adam makes it to first anchor, both at top of pitch 1
- 7:59 Somil starts lead of pitch 2
- 8:30 Adam makes it to second anchor, both at top of pitch 2
- 8:38 Somil starts lead of pitch 3
- 9:26 Adam makes it to third anchor, both at top of pitch 3
- 9:45 Somil rappels from top
- 9:54 Adam rappels from top
- 10:26 back on the ground safely
// special thanks to Somil from Los Angeles who led this climb with me //